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Just before Christmas in 2008 in the Tennessee town of Kingston, a pile of coal ash located near the Kingston Fossil Plant broke free and spread into the 300 acres surrounding the plant and eventually into the Emory River Channel. The six-story high pile of coal ash – residue from burning coal – had accumulated over five decades in an area that had started out as a swimming hole.

“It looked like a black wave, almost like a black tsunami swallowed a town,” says Jared Sullivan, author of Valley So Low. “It punched forward with the force of water punching through a dam. All this ash just flooded the landscape.”

View of the TVA Kingston Fossil Plant fly ash spill about a mile from the retention pond from just off Swan Pond Road. The pile of ash in the photo is 20-25 feet high, and stretches for about two miles along this inlet that empties into the Emory River. Brian Stansberry / CC BY 3.0

A billion gallons of ash, estimated to be 100 times larger than the Exxon Valdez spill, eventually spilled out of the pond, destroying dozens of homes in the area.

“As far as I know, it is the largest environmental disaster, in terms of just the sheer volume of material that was released, in U.S. history,” Sullivan says.

Sullivan recounts the fallout of this disaster in his new book, which tells the story of the disaster, the cleanup workers, and the fight for justice against the Tennessee Valley Authority (TVA) and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) by a determined lawyer, Jim Scott.

“It’s an environmental book dressed up as a legal thriller,” Sullivan says.

“I was a kid when it happened,” Sullivan recalls. “I remember watching on the news. There are people in front of the news cameras, and they say again and again this stuff poses no legitimate risk. Don’t worry about it. They really went out of their way to try to put the community and Tennesseans generally at ease.” Almost immediately, the TVA put out a statement stating the ash was not hazardous.

Shortly afterwards, the cleanup of the site began, and Jacobs Engineering was hired by the TVA as the cleanup contractors. But once the cleanup crew started the work, they weren’t provided any protective gear, such as masks or hazmat suits. This seemed to align with what the TVA was saying publicly at the time, which was that the coal ash was non-toxic.

“Imagine if, all of a sudden, all the workers are in hazmat suits stomping around this site. That kind of really undermines TVA’s initial claims that the coal ash doesn’t really pose any substantial threat,” Sullivan says. “The EPA had given TVA tight deadlines in which to complete this huge cleanup project, and if the workers would have been given dust masks, under federal rules around worker safety, they would have needed to take mandatory breaks so they wouldn’t overheat in the Tennessee summer.”

“I found transcripts from a meeting in 2009 where this worker’s wife basically asked a TVA senior vice president when we’re going to have hazmat suits and the TVA senior vice president responds, oh, within two weeks, we will get them to you. And that just never happened.”

Jared Sullivan author photo by Mackenzie Wray

Sullivan found in his research for the book that the ash, which contains arsenic, lead and radioactive materials, was recognized decades earlier by TVA to be toxic.

“There are documents going back to 1964 where TVA’s top brass are telling each other that that they’ve run tests on the coal ash and it contains definite corrosive tendencies. And they also tell each other that this coal ash lands on employee’s cars at one of their plants in Kentucky, and it’s eating away at the paint.”

But Tom Bock, a top safety officer with Jacobs Engineering at the cleanup site in Kingston, claimed that the fly ash – part of the coal as that floats through the air – is “safe enough to eat.”

“I don’t think he, in my personal opinion, carried out his job in the most effective way possible. But I really do think he was taking marching orders. He was a trusted figure, and he was in a position of authority.”

But people started to get sick, the first group being smokers. And then other people started having respiratory issues after the coal ash dried up and started to blow around the job site, affecting other workers. Sullivan dedicates large parts of Valley So Low to these workers and how their lives were upended by simply taking on the cleanup job.

“They start coughing up blood in their truck, they start passing out in the truck. So it really snowballs,” Sullivan says. Eventually, at least 30 workers died who had worked on the cleanup site, and hundreds became sick.

In Valley So Low, lawyer Jim Scott enters the picture on behalf of the workers to file suit against Jacobs Engineering. Sullivan traces all of the legal maneuverings and the challenges that Scott and his team faced against the corporate behemoth that is Jacobs. These led, eventually in 2023, to a settlement offer that the plaintiffs accepted. Sullivan notes that Jacobs denies any wrongdoing.

“It was far too little and way too late — that’s the general view of the workers. Don’t get me wrong — they were glad it was finally over. There was some relief of just like, okay, I can move on with my life.”

“The legal system was not set up to reach an equitable or fair conclusion in these sorts of cases,” Sullivan adds. “The corporations have all the money and honestly, all the time in the world to drag these cases out. So eventually, they have to capitulate. The system does not force these cases to come to speedy resolutions. And that’s to the incredible disadvantage of everyday Americans.”

And Sullivan notes that the EPA should take responsibility as well.

“They had people on site at Kingston, and yet did not ensure that the workers had proper respiratory protection,” he says.

“The EPA has been undercut, you know, bit by bit for so many years that it’s not an effective organ. It’s not effective at these sort of disaster cleanups.”

Hundreds of unlined coal ash dumping sites still exist around the country, leaching into the ground water and rivers. The Duke Energy Dan River coal ash spill also affected the water and rivers in the Dan River, followed by another breach in 2018 near the Cape Fear River, both in North Carolina. But in 2015, new rules stated that new coal ash piles had to have liners to prevent leaching, along with monitoring of groundwater. And then in 2024 the EPA finalized rules that force power companies to clean up their inactive piles of coal ash.

“I think the American people will benefit from both those rules,” Sullivan says. “The problem is that the EPA still does not consider coal ash, fly ash, a hazardous material. So the fact is these EPA rules are self-enforcing. So that means that you have to trust the power company to monitor their own coal ash ponds. And you can read my book and decide for yourself whether you want to trust the power companies to be responsible for managing their coal ash ponds and being honest about it.”

Sullivan writes passionately about the TVA, nothing that it was one of the great liberal public works projects when it was created by FDR, one that rescued Tennessee’s economy and moved customers away from a privatized, corrupted power industry, but that perhaps the TVA has lost its way. But he sees a real opportunity for the TVA to seize the moment and move away from coal-fired plants in the region.

“We need to be urging it to ramp up nuclear power, in addition to other renewable energy sources,” he says. “We could sure use the seven giant nuclear power plants today to help reduce our emissions.”

The post A Flood of Ash: The Fight for Justice in Kingston, Tennessee appeared first on EcoWatch.

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Earth911 Inspiration: Be a Mountain or Lean on One

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This week’s quote is a Somali proverb: “Be a mountain or lean on one.”

Earth911 inspirations. Post them, share your desire to help people think of the planet first, every day. Click to get a larger image.

"Be a mountain or lean on one." --Somali proverb

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8 Best Ethical & Sustainable Flats That Are Effortlessly Chic

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Ballet flats have long been a staple in my wardrobe, but in the past few years have experienced a significant resurgence — and for good reason. The right pair can be practical, versatile, and oh so chic through days at work, with family, or out for the evening. But finding that “just right” set that’s well-crafted and sustainably made can be a whole other story. That’s why this sustainable flats guide exists.

Comfort, style, sustainability, and longevity are a lot to ask in a shoe, but I don’t believe it’s too much. It just takes some extra digging. And thankfully, I’ve done that digging for you. Because I get it! I want a flat that looks beautiful. I want a flat that’s made responsibly in line with my values. I want a shoe I can actually wear for my life. And I want that shoe to be worth the investment — it has to last. That’s why I vetted through dozens of brands to create this curated list of flats.

What Makes a Flat More Sustainable?

Material Sourcing

Footwear is a tricky category when it comes to sustainable fashion because we ask a lot of our shoes. We wear them in rain or sunshine, paved paths and cobblestone, day in and day out for years. And through it all, they have to remain beautiful. Because when they’re unwearable, there’s not much left to do with them: there is no viable footwear recycling today. Anywhere that calls it “shoe recycling” is really repurposing that footwear. But once it can no longer be worn, it’s simply trash.

In other words, our shoes need to be incredibly durable, even though the most durable materials don’t always come with the lightest footprint. In footwear, when we talk about durability, we usually rely on leather or high-performance synthetic materials. Leather can hold up with many years of wear, getting more beautiful with wear, and is easy to repair when needed. Synthetic materials are also durable, particularly for withstanding the elements like snow and rain.

But sourcing these materials conventionally is highly polluting — so how can we source these materials better?

For synthetics, we have recycled options. Today, that’s largely recycling from plastic bottles, which isn’t without it’s controversies, but there is much innovation happening in the industry around true textile-to-textile recycling.

For leather, I look for:

  • Vegetable-tanned (rather than chromium tanned)
  • Locally-sourced leather (more traceability), and/or
  • Leather Working Group certified leather, which covers responsible management of water, energy, and waste; safe chemical management, traceability of the raw material, and occupational safety for workers.

Notably, there is no certification for animal welfare, so these are imperfect systems. But the alternative is footwear made from synthetic plastic materials or vegan leather alternatives that don’t yet meet the same durability standards as leather. Sustainability within today’s constraints requires trade-offs.

That said, there is always secondhand leather — by buying shoes secondhand you can access the quality of leather without adding further demand for the material.

Responsible Manufacturing

When considering responsible production practices, I look for first and foremost: transparency. Seeing what the brand shares about their material sourcing, their process, and who made their shoes where. And then I look at the details of that process: were the shoes made locally or within a geographic region? How are the workers paid and treated — and under which conditions do they work?

And, sometimes a brand employs an out-of-the-box approach to manufacturing entirely. There are a few slow fashion footwear brands challenging the traditional fashion system of ordering in mass quantities before demand is assessed —which inevitably leads to overproduction. These brands use an “on demand” model instead, producing their shoes only after they’ve been ordered. This reduces the risk of overproduction (i.e. producing more than what gets sold) while also encouraging more thoughtful consumption. You can’t impulse buy a pair of Mary Janes that you have to wait 8 weeks for.

Wearable and Beautiful

The most perfectly environmentally sustainable flat in the world is useless if no one wants to wear it. And as I mentioned earlier, footwear cannot be recycled into new footwear at the end of its life, so we want our shoes to last a really long time. That means they need to be design forward and comfortable, too.

My Top Picks for More Sustainable and Ethical Flats

Keeping all of that in mind, these more sustainable flats brands meet this criteria, albeit to various extents. Some err more on comfort while some more on style. Some have admirable levels of transparency and social impact, while other brands have more of a focus on their ecological impact. I’ve included descriptions alongside each brand as well as a summary of conscious qualities so you can find a brand that meets your priorities best. And, of course, a price range so you know what makes sense for your budget as well.

Some that this guide includes affiliate links which means we may earn a commission if you shop through these links. As always, brands featured in shopping guides are brands that meet our strict sustainability criteria that we think you’ll love.

1. ALOHAS

Spanish brand ALOHAS flips the typical fashion production system on its head with its on-demand model.

Instead of overproducing thousands of shoes to later discount them, ALOHAS does the exact opposite. Its newest styles are available for pre-order at a discount of 30%, so the footwear brand can more accurately forecast demand. Then the shoes — like their flats — are primarily made by local artisans in Spain and Portugal. The brand regularly shows the behind the scenes of their production on their social media.

Conscious Qualities: On-Demand Production, Locally Made

Size Range: EU 35-42 (US 5-11)
Price Range: $195-$225

sustainable black ballet flats

2. Rothy’s

If you’re looking for flats for all-day wear at work or running errands, Rothy’s is my recommendation with their cushy insoles. The brand makes their more sustainable flats from recycled plastic bottles, as well as materials like hemp and merino wool, but they still look sleek enough for the office.

While I might not wear Rothy’s flats to a fashion event (I prefer smooth leather for more elevated occasions), they are more than stylish enough to wear to most of my real-life scenarios. My favorite part about Rothy’s, though, is that they are machine washable.

Materials: Recycled & Natural Materials, Owns One Factory (undisclosed percentage of production)

Size Range: US 5-13
Price Range: $99-$165

mustard yellow recycled flats with pointy toes

3. Vivaia

Vivaia has the most adorable sustainable Mary Janes made from recycled plastic bottles. The adjustable straps and arch support make Vivaia’s Mary Janes suitable for all-day comfort, even if your feet are typically prone to slipping out of flats.

This vegan footwear brand also makes square-toe and pointed-toe flats for a more elevated look. And of the several recycled plastic bottle footwear brands on the market today, Vivaia tends to have the most elevated designs in my opinion.

Conscious Qualities: Vegan, Recycled Materials

Size Range: US 5-11
Price: $97 – $116

4. The RealReal

The RealReal is an authenticated luxury resale platform with contemporary, designer, and high-end luxury brands. Depending on your priorities you can find shoes in anywhere from pristine condition (but higher priced)) to “fair” or even “as is” for the largest discount from full price.

You don’t always have as many options aesthetically when shopping more sustainably, so I like to go to The RealReal when I’m looking for specific styles. I was recently looking for Mary Janes with feminine detailing and came across Larroude Flats on The RealReal, where I purchased a pair of neutral scalloped accent flats. (Pictured here!)

Conscious Qualities: Secondhand

Size Range: US 3.5-14
Price Range: $9+

5. ESSĒN

ESSĒN elegant, minimalist footwear is artisan handcrafted from Leather Working Group-certified leather in solar-powered facilities in Italy, Portugal, and Spain. Each shoe also comes with a product passport where you can view the step-by-step journey that product took through the brand’s supply chain from raw material to manufacturing to packaging and distribution.

Beyond transparency and responsible manufacturing, ESSĒN’s slow fashion business model prevents overproduction by operating on a made to order basis. Meaning while sizes and styles are predefined, the shoes are only produced after they’ve been ordered.

Conscious Qualities: LWG Certified, Supply Chain Transparency, On Demand Production

Size Range: EU 35-44 (US 4-13)
Price Range: $295-$450

Chocolate brown leather classic flats

6. Allbirds

Another comfort-first footwear option besides Rothy’s is Allbirds. The brand creates lightweight, super smooth and breathable flats from tree fibers, aptly called “Tree Breezers”. The (washable) shoes are also soft enough to wear without socks.

The Allbirds Tree Breezers are far more comfortable than typical flats, though I find that the Rothy’s are slightly comfier.

Conscious Qualities: Natural materials (FSC-Certified eucalyptus, castor mean oil, sugarcane EVA)

Size Range: US 5-11
Price Range: $105-$125

Gray wool flats

7. Darzah

Fair trade certified by Fair Trade Federation, Darzah’s ethical flats are entirely hand-embroidered and handcrafted in Palestine from locally sourced leather.

The tatreez flats from this nonprofit are embroidered by refugee and low-income women artisans in the West Bank with this traditional Palestinian techniques.

Conscious Qualities: Sustains Heritage Crafts, Fair Trade Certified

Size Range: EU 36-41 (US 6-10)
Price Range: $199 – $209

Tatreez fair trade flats in red and blue

8. Nisolo

If you’re seeking a quality pair of classic leather flats ideal for your capsule wardrobe, Nisolo is a strong pick. Nisolo’s flats are handcrafted by artisans using leather sourced from a Leather Working Group certified tannery.

I’ve been wearing my Nisolo shoes for many years and can attest to their quality and durability.

That said, the brand has recently turned over to new ownership and now has significantly less information about their sustainability and ethics in their supply chain. I will be keeping a close eye on this brand to see if it continues to uphold the values Nisolo has long held.

Conscious Qualities: LWG-Certified, Artisan Handcrafted

Size Range: US 5-11
Price: $138 – $198

Tan square toe Mary Jane made from certified responsible leather

👗 For More Slow Fashion Content:

You May Also Want to Check Out:

The Best Affordable Ethical Fashion Brands

Responsibly Made Vegan Shoe Brands

15 Brands with Ethical Boots to Rock this Fall (and Beyond)

The post 8 Best Ethical & Sustainable Flats That Are Effortlessly Chic appeared first on Conscious Life & Style.

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Earth911 Inspiration: What Provides Survives — Simon M. Lamb

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Today’s quote is from writer, businessman, and conservationist Simon M. Lamb. In his book, Junglenomics: Nature’s Solutions to the World Environment Crisis, he suggests that nature provides solutions to help us reform our environmentally destructive economic practices.

Lamb writes, “As in nature, so in economics — what provides survives.”

Earth911 inspirations. Post them, share your desire to help people think of the planet first, every day. Click the poster to get a larger image.

"As in nature, so in economics -- what provides, survives." --Simon M. Lamb

Editor’s Note: This poster was originally published on March 27, 2020.

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